The low country…


Today was quite a day.  We started out in Charleston with a stop at my favorite little coffee place from last year’s trip – Baked.  I Googled it, got an address, and found it with no problem.  Not only that, there was an open parking space right there on the street!

I grabbed my cup, left Max safely inside the car and went into… wait a minute!  This says BAKEhouse…  I asked the girl at the counter if it used to be called “Baked,” and she said it did.  “What happened?” I asked.  New ownership.

Well, in my opinion the place has been neutralized.  Stark white walls, shiny round tiles on the sides of the counter, and the wall behind it in pink and white.  All in all, not the same warm, inviting, hip place of just one year ago.  The only redeeming factor is that the latté was just as excellent as I remembered.

Latté in hand, quarters fed into the meter, Max leashed and ready to walk, we set out to find Katy and Scott and their dogs.  We met up at St. Phillips Cemetery on Church Street, and Max went nuts to see his sweet little girlfriend, Loolie!

Along the way, I met a nice couple from Colorado who said they were “missing their poodle puppy!” and we spent about 10 minutes on the corner of East Bay and Broad while Max put on the best display of good manners I’ve seen from him in a long time.

Max sits for the pupparazzi at St. Phillips Church, Charleston, SC>

Max sits for the pupparazzi at St. Phillips Church, Charleston, SC.

Katy, Scott, Max, Loolie, Hershey at St Phillips Church in Charleston, SC.

Katy, Loolie, Hershey, Scott, and Max at St Phillips Church in Charleston, SC.

Katy, Me, Max, Loolie, Hershey at St Phillips Church in Charleston, SC.

Katy, Loolie, Hershey, me, and Max at St Phillips Church in Charleston, SC.

After our reunion at the Cemetery, we went our separate ways to get to Beaufort in the afternoon.  The plan was to check into our hotel, and head out to Hunting Island State Park.

Max and I had a great drive through the low country of South Carolina.  Route 17 goes through some of the prettiest marshy areas, in and out of pine forests, and past small towns.  There wasn’t a lot of traffic, the sun was strong, and the air was fabulous and clear.  I had the windows part way down, and I have to say it couldn’t have been a sweeter drive.

Today’s soundtrack was Teddy Thompson Up Front and Down Low.

The road name for today?  How about Cuckold Landing?  Wouldn’t we like to know where that name came from!

We all arrived within about 15 minutes, checked in, ate lunch in the sun, then headed on out to the state park – about 17 miles from Beaufort (which, by the way, is another gorgeous old southern belle of a town!). More about Beaufort tomorrow…

The route to the state park took us onto St. Helena Island, and I was shocked – shocked I say! – by a sign I saw for littering.   Well, not FOR littering, but against it.  (I wish I had taken a picture, but…)  here’s what it said: NO LITTERING. $1000 Fine or Prison.

Prison!  not JAIL!  PRISON!  Remember Arlo Guthrie’s monologue about  Alice’s Restaurant?  When they get arrested for littering and they’re sitting on the Group W bench?  Well, I was reminded of that monologue when I saw that sign for littering…

Here’s a brief excerpt of the part of the monologue that came to my mind:

“…I proceeded to tell him the story of the twenty seven eight-by-ten colour glossy pictures with the circles and arrows and the paragraph on the back of each one, and he stopped me right there and said, “Kid, I want you to go and sit down on that bench that says Group W …. NOW kid!!” And I, I walked over to the, to the bench there, and there is, Group W’s where they put you if you may not be moral enough to join the army after committing your special crime, and there was all kinds of mean nasty ugly looking people on the bench there.

Mother rapers. Father stabbers. Father rapers! Father rapers sitting right there on the bench next to me! And they was mean and nasty and ugly and horrible crime-type guys sitting on the bench next to me. And the meanest, ugliest, nastiest one, the meanest father raper of them all, was coming over to me and he was mean ’n’ ugly ’n’ nasty ’n’ horrible and all kind of things and he sat down next to me and said, “Kid, whad’ya get?” 

I said, “I didn’t get nothing, I had to pay $50 and pick up the garbage.” He said, “What were you arrested for, kid?” And I said, “Littering.” And they all moved away from me on the bench there, and the hairy eyeball and all kinds of mean nasty things, till I said, “And creating a nuisance.”

And they all came back, shook my hand, and we had a great time on the bench, talkin about crime, mother stabbing, father raping, all kinds of groovy things that we was talking about on the bench. And everything was fine, we was smoking cigarettes and all kinds of things, until the Sargeant came over, had some paper in his hand, held it up and said….

the boardwalk at Hunting Island State Park.

This boardwalk at Hunting Island State Park takes you out to a little island, or hammock as they are called in this neck of the woods..

Katy on the boardwalk at Hunting Island State Park.

Katy on the boardwalk at Hunting Island State Park.

katy, max and loolie on the beach at Hunting Island State Park.

Katy, Max, and Loolie on the beach at Hunting Island State Park.

on the beach at Hunting Island State Park.

Remnants of trees in the surf at the beach at Hunting Island State Park.

max and loolie on the beach at Hunting Island State Park.

Max and Loolie “playing ball” on the beach at Hunting Island State Park. By the way, this is not how the whole beach looks. This is the northern end of the beach…

Max hunting island beach

Long shadows, long legs, long dog. Max is happy as a clam on the beach at Hunting Island State Park.

hunting island lighthouse

I love the lighthouses of the Carolinas. Nothing like what we see in New England - and often set, like this one at Hunting Island Beach, back quite a way from the water.

And what about this???

sign: submerged groin

’nuff said!

st helena chapel

I spotted this tiny chapel on St. Helena Island on our way out to Hunting Island State Park.

Remember the Chapel of the Holy Dove that I stumbled upon on my way out to the Grand Canyon last year?  This one didn’t have that sort of mysterious charm, but it did beckon me over.

front view of st helena chapel

When we got back, Max was so tired he didn’t even want to eat his dinner…

max on bed beaufort sc

I really like this bed. Where did you want to sleep??

While the dogs rested up in their separate rooms, Katy, Scott and I walked over to the Breakwater Restaurant and had a fabulous meal.  I forgot my iPhone, so there are no photos (sorry).

A fine Pinot Grigio,  excellent beet, goat cheese, and spicy candied pecan salad, and lamb meatloaf over buttermilk mashed and haricot verts.  Ooh la la!  Katy had a delicious fish chowder with corn, potatoes, andouille sausage, and the beet salad, while Scott had what looked like a great Caesar salad and a sampler plate.   After dinner, the three of us took a short walk through some really pretty side streets.  I’m hoping to take Max and the iPhone on some of these streets in the daylight and snap some pix.

Good night sweet boy…

max sleeping beaufort, sc

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About Maureen Farr

I am a graphic and web designer – and the publisher of the print version of Arts Guide, a free guide highlighting the arts, dining, events, and more on the coast of Maine. In addition, I am a visual artist working in mixed media and encaustic, as well as creating found object jewelry. I am currently at work revising a short novel that I wrote as a participant in the 32nd Annual 3-Day Novel Contest.
This entry was posted in Charleston, Coffee, Eating out on a road trip, Friends along the way, playing with a poodle, South Carolina, Traveling with a dog, Traveling wth a poodle and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

5 Responses to The low country…

  1. hank says:

    i love you, momo. your blog is so great!

  2. I love that last picture in particular–glad Mr. Max is okay. 🙂

    • Maureen Farr says:

      thanks Cindy. I love that pic too! Vet says he’s not as drunk as he was a while ago and I can pick him up in an hour!

  3. Gandalf says:

    hey, hammock or hummock???? Still ‘nating; It got all the way to 9:45 because I took an unsuccessful Google tour to see if I could satisfy your Cuckold’s Landing curiosity. No go.

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